Monster Golf Swing Program

I've made several drawings and I couldn't wait to get it out of my head and start welding! I've had this idea of an independent suspension where all . This is after the upper parallel pin is installed using H-links and the pneumatic cylinders (soon to be converted into hydraulic adjustable shocks. Here's a picture of the pneumatic cylinders plumbed for a hydraulic shock application (another one of my hair brained ideas). There's a 10-turn valve. Mount a gas tank up high so gravity will feed it down. I found this body at the dump for free. Can you see the proper springs under there now? I de. After the first test run I noticed the steering wasn't stable enough. The wheels kept wanting to turn in on each other. So, I made a 12V linear actu. Here's what the circuit looks like put together. R, C & L are just soldered to the terminals where I removed the pot off the servo board so I could r. Here is the completed unit. Just attach it to the steering linkage on the truck and I guarantee it will steer just about any size project you make. . Prototype Results: There were a few small mechanical type issues that were easily solved in the maiden voyage. The vertical movement of the suspensi. I've made several drawings and I couldn't wait to get it out of my head and start welding! I've had this idea of an independent suspension where all swingarms pivot from a common center pin and all shocks are inline and attched to a parallel upper pin. I useda solid steel rod as the pin and welded matching tubing to the swing arms and honed them for a good fit. I'll do the same for the shock mounts. Here' s the start of it all. The 4 swing arms with the lower pin, front steering knuckles and 4 golf cart tires with ball bearing hubs. I made monster golf swing program the swing arms out of 3" electrical conduit. The steering knuckle are simply 3/8" thick steel plates with washers, bolts & bearings to make for a proper knuckle. I had to weld a keyed sleeve into the rear hubs to make a proper fit to the 3/4" keyed axle shaft. Very well done. parts sourced from stuff laying around to keep cost down. Excellent, I see science and engineering background went into the design but Mister, That is the worst conceived chassis I have ever seen. Okay, function over form is alright but that frame looks like a refugee from Menieke. very cool i am building one but i cant find and actuator. I guess ill have to search deeper. What radio systems did you use? thanks. awesome project. are the R,C and L on the servo controller substitutes for Right, Common and Left. Just want to know because this is one of the many projects that im considering doing this easter/summer. Anyone says RLC to me, and i start thinking of phase shift. ive been in electics to long. help!!!! i do have a question tho, is the potentiometer part of the kit, or can a better angular sensor be used. cheers evildoctorbluetooth. The pot has to match the one that is in the servo circuit you use for the driver. I can't imagine why you would need to be more accurate than a standard servo. It senses less than half of a degree. I planned a similar sort of thing for an all-terrain radio control when I was about 14/15yrs but using 5 electric-start moped engines, 2 for forwards & 2 for reverse with tank style steering. The 5th acting as a generator. It was overkill at the time and really didn't know as much as I do now I never really got past the design stage due to lack of money and resources but some of the basic electronics worked and (unluckily or luckily can't decide) ended up in other projects. I might mod this and add a few of my other ideas to the build once I start it again. Some of the instructions in this have solved a couple of probs I had with the designs. Thanks for the 'ibble. i have the plans to build one myself and i would like to know how you made the rc device controlers and what not. thanks. Great. I would love to see what you come up with. The RC devicese were mostly off the shelf stuff. The radio and receiver is a standard 2 ch surface Futaba set you can get anywhere cheap. I used a big Hitec 1/4 scale servo for throttle and just attached it to the throttle cable. I used the highest torque 1/4 scale servo for the brake and just hooked it up to the brake cable that was part of the moped transmission/drum brake system. The I made the steering actuator as you saw in this instructable. I used two 6 volt batteries in series so I could run all the RC stuff on one battery and hook the motors charging system up to the 12V series batteries and use the 12V seriesed batteries for the electric start feature too. That's about it. Please ask any more questions you want. How much did your 12V linear actuator cost? I have a project vaguely similar to yours, and built something analogous to one of those, and I was wondering how much the more robust, professional ones cost. Bio:I would love to find a job where I could play with fabrication tools all day and be creative. Anyone have a suggestion?.